Experts Q&A
We discussed with Laura Magro, Director of Scientific Development at the Center for biomimetics studies and expertise CEEBIOS and Carmen Gutierrez, International Product Manager and Global Active Specialist at IMCD Beauty & Personal Care, for a closer look at how the field of biomimetics is evolving in the Beauty & Personal Care industry.
How can biomimetics active ingredients take cosmetics performance to the next level?
Laura: Bio-inspiration is a historical process, it’s very logical, natural, and even instinctive. This is especially true in the cosmetics industry, which has developed a unique expertise between chemistry
and biology, and a privileged link with living systems. Biomimicry offers excellent potential for cosmetic performance, and it goes far beyond creative inspiration. It’s about an innovative, tooled design
methodology that’s based on one key principle: functionality. For cosmetics, this functional approach refreshes the way we use, choose, and develop active ingredients. It invites us to associate structure and function from the molecular scale, and to organize matter at all scales. The desired function is not only ensured by active ingredients, but by the supra-molecular architecture.
Carmen: Biomimetics approach prompts us to reflect on a smarter way to design cosmetic active ingredients offering a better skin compatibility and an enhanced activity to answer consumer high expectations.
How can biomimicry create more sustainable beauty products and ingredients?
Laura: Evolutionary history and the chemistry of living organisms shows us how to be sustainable: use of local and abundant raw materials, transformation processes at ambient temperature and pressure, chemical recycling of waste, etc. But the greatest source of inspiration will most likely be found in the design or manufacturing principles of ingredients rather than in the ingredients themselves. Already, peptides and catalysts have unlocked a vast field of innovation.
Carmen: Finding inspiration in molecules, pathways, entities, and reactions that already exist is a smart way to enhance the natural functions of our skin. Through imitation, we can develop safer and less invasive technologies, which help restore skin that’s been damaged by the aging process or by external factors. Recycling damaged collagen that accumulates on skin to produce new collagen, stimulates endogenous antioxidants, and synthesizes existing molecules on our skin that have slowed down because of aging or UV damage.
Do you have any examples in mind?
Laura: Lately, I’ve really admired the work of Claude Grison’s. She explores turning plants and metallic waste into resources with biomolecules in a very innovative and original fashion.
How do you expect biomimetics & bio-inspired cosmetic ingredients to evolve in the future?
Carmen: Consumers are increasingly aware of how cosmetics act on the skin and what benefits they can expect. There is a greater demand for natural and sustainable products. Biomimetics and bio-inspired cosmetic ingredients can trigger the natural biological mechanisms which help recover the skin’s health.
Laura: It seems difficult to think only in terms of ingredients. By definition, biomimetics invites us to rethink the technical topic as a whole: content, container, format and use. Exploring the interfaces
between active ingredients, galenic formulation and packaging is essential for carrying out a real responsible and sustainable transformation of the cosmetics industry.
Besides skincare, what other applications can you see potential for with biomimetic active ingredients?
Laura: Biomimicry has the potential to contribute to all application sectors. From hygiene and cleaning, nails and hair, the management of odors to the production of colors. The possibilities are endless! The functional approach of biomimicry even invites collaboration between industrial sectors: manufacturers of paints and coatings, health or agri-food players, water and environment management operators.
Carmen: Traditionally, haircare has always been more conservative than skincare, leaving room for future development of innovative active ingredients or formulations, inspired by nature. If I had to give concrete examples, plant derived proteins and amino acids that repair damaged hair and nails could be an interesting new field to explore.